My thoughts were to take it down to my local powder coaters, get them to strip the frame and restore the blue colour (but leave the detail areas raw metal), and then I would paint in the details by hand.
Is this a feasible idea, or would it look awful? I'm tidy with a paintbrush, but I've no idea how it would come out on metal.
What sort of paint, brushes, techniques should I use?
If not hand painting, how else could I restore the details?
Thanks very much
Here's a few sites about painting/restoring cycle frames;
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This is a closed cell sponge neoprene. It is primarily used as a cushion and sealing tape against air and moisture. It can also be used as a dust seal for furniture, store fixtures and partitions, noise insulation, padding, expansion joints of precast concrete and steel, vapour barrier for prefab buildings, HVAC & refrigeration, automotive...
This is a closed cell sponge neoprene. It is primarily used as a cushion and sealing tape against air and moisture. It can also be used as a dust seal for furniture, store fixtures and partitions, noise insulation, padding, expansion joints of precast concrete and steel, vapour barrier for prefab buildings, HVAC & refrigeration, automotive...
This is a closed cell sponge neoprene. It is primarily used as a cushion and sealing tape against air and moisture. It can also be used as a dust seal for furniture, store fixtures and partitions, noise insulation, padding, expansion joints of precast concrete and steel, vapour barrier for prefab buildings, HVAC & refrigeration, automotive...
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The original DERINGERTM was a guy who invented pistols, so we figure the name hits the mark for a frame that's trigger happy with tech like TWIN SHOCKTM. It's a hinge innovation that allows for hyper-flexing, and this ultra lightweight titanium frame combines it with UNOBTAINIUM® earsocks for a comfortable fit...
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Feeding Raw Turkey Frames
What are raw frame speakers? I am looking for replacement guitar speakers.?
A raw frame speaker is term for a speaker without an enclosure or a crossover, and generally with a heavy duty cast basket and a tough suspension system (surround , spider, etc) designed to withstand the shock and vibration stage gear has to take. Generally these are replacements for specific units, often musical instrument loudspeakers (combined head units and speaker enclosures).
If you plan to replace any speaker, there are several steps involved:
1: Mark the speaker's wires for polarity ("+" and "-") first. A red Sharpie marker or red electrical tape on the "+" lead will do. Getting it wrong can affect not just your own intrument's sound, but the sound of other people playing with you ("phase" makes a difference).
2: Disconnect the leads and pull the speaker (usually secured with screws from the front or back, sometimes concealed by a trim ring). If it's been in there a long time, it may stick- a putty knife can be used to lift the gasket or compression fittings at the edge of the speaker. BE SLOW AND CAREFUL- slipping too far in with the blade can cut the surround or cone of a perfectly good speaker. If it still won't come, you may have missed screws- or some moron may have glued the speaker to the enclosure. If so, you can use a wire saw to carefully cut it free at the mount point- but chances of salvage are slim for the speaker. Not recommended for the inexpert. You'll need to grind off the remaining glue to provide a smooth mounting surface for the replacement speaker too.
3: If the speaker is not in obvious physical need of replacement (torn surround, scratching noises when carefully pushed straight in ,etc), meter it or just apply a flashlight battery across the tabs where the wire was connected. If nothing happens (speaker should move in or out or at least make a popping sound), the voice coil is blown. Time for a new one, or a rebuild if it's vintage gear. If you have a rare old unit of some kind, SAVE THE OLD SPEAKER. You may need to have it reconed if an exact replacement is no longer available. If it seems fine, STOP AND HAVE THE AMP CHECKED.
4: Try to determine the manufacturer, how many watts it can handle, and the size of the unit (look for any marks or brand names on the basket and the magnet assembly). If you have the original manual (or can get one), it may have all that info and a model number under the specifications. Depth is a factor too- your cabinet may not accomodate a replacement that is bigger from front to back than the origiinal. Stock replacements are best to keep the sound of the original unit- it really makes a difference.
5: If possible, order the raw frame unit from the original manufacturer. Shipping companies are brutal, so closer is better- and springing for the three day shipping can make the difference between DOA and a working replacement.
6: Mount the new speaker. Be careful with your screwdriver- one slip can cut the suround. If no seal or gasket came with the replacement, get good quality weatherstripping and put a complete ring down where the speaker meets the enclosure. Usually, one side will have an adhesive strip- make sure it's on the enclosure, not the speaker, because if you hose it, you want to be scraping it off the enclosure, not your brand new speaker. Use a piece of string or wire around the opening to obtain the length of the seal. Cut your weatherstripping an inch over, overlap it at the mount point, and cut straight down with a razor or sharp knife at a 45 degree angle. Lift the extra bits off the top and bottom of your overlap to get a perfect fit. Sealing the cabinet prevents hisses, whistles, and increases the effective volume and sound quality of the unit.It also provides a bit of shock-mounting for the speaker. Be gentle for the first few hours of use- some new speakers are very "stiff" out of the box and require a short break in period. Enjoy!
mo doubt get the WTP JUSTICE i have it and it is amazing, best i have ever used. good for strret dirt and park. its so good most of mine is still stock
mo doubt get the WTP JUSTICE i have it and it is amazing, best i have ever used. good for strret dirt and park. its so good most of mine is still stock